Touring Columbia County Highways & Byways

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Sandy riverfront beaches, quiet back roads and a museum that takes up a city block are among attractions in Columbia County, Oregon.

Most of Columbia County is sparsely populated timberlands; most of its towns are along Highway 30, which hugs the riverbank.

From Longview, there's only one bridge across the river. The 200-foot-tall Lewis and Clark bridge was built in 1930, designed by the same architect who later designed the Golden Gate Bridge in San Francisco.

As you drive across the bridge, an industrial landscape unfolds below. Docks are stacked with thousands of logs, while log-loaders looking like beetles with pincers stack even more. The port bustles, and river traffic is fairly constant.

As you climb higher on the bridge you see Rainier, sandwiched between the green hillside and the river, a white steeple gleaming. At the top of the span, you're looking down on ocean-going ships of various kinds at anchor or loading.

The shoreline and ever-changing islands that dot the river stretch out below. A U.S. Gypsum wallboard plant sits at the base of the bridge near Dibblee Point, where parts of the 2000 movie "Men of Honor," starring Robert DeNiro and Cuba Gooding, Jr., were filmed.

Rainier

If you head into Rainier from the Lewis and Clark Bridge, you can explore an early river town.

Originally, Rainier was built on pilings with houses on the hills that stretched away from the river. Some nice old homes are scattered about town.

In the 1890s, workers helped build a railroad through town, and the increasingly used tracks still cut right down the main street (A Street) for several blocks.

A white-columned two-story city hall marks the center of town.

Down at the waterfront, there's a boat launch, shops, and restaurants and the spacious and newly renovated Riverfront Park.

The wide-open park at the west edge of downtown is a favorite of walkers. It has basketball and tennis courts, a skateboard park, and a first-rate playground. It offers a close view of maritime activity at the Port of Longview.

A couple of miles west (downstream) from Rainier, is Dibblee Point, an undeveloped but popular sandy beach along the Columbia River.

People hike or ride horseback through the sandy trails. Dibblee Point is the closest place to Longview-Kelso with extensive bank fishing on the Columbia, too.

To reach Dibblee Point, turn north from Highway 30 onto Rockcrest Road. Turn left onto Dike Road, and right at the stop sign past the gypsum plant on Young Road. Take the gravel road across the railroad tracks about a mile to the river.

In the other direction (upstream), east of Rainier, is Laurel Beach, much smaller and more scenic. The day-use park is a special site for anglers and bird watchers that opens one hour before sunrise and closes one hour after sunset. A small strip of sandy beach also is accessible from the parking area. Take Laurelwood Road about 1½ miles south of town. You'll have to walk up a rough path and over the railroad tracks.

Farther south on Highway 30, the site of Lewis and Clark's campsite at Prescott Beach on Nov. 5, 1805, has been developed into an attractive park. The 71-acre day-use park charges a $2 per vehicle fee.

You'll also find a picnic shelter, playground equipment, gazebo, horseshoe pit, and volleyball courts. During salmon runs, the shore is lined with fishing rods.

The area between Prescott Beach and the Trojan Nuclear Power Plant, which stopped producing energy in 1993, offers large marshes and good bird watching.

Though the remains of the power plant (the reactor has been removed) are closed to the public, the grounds around Trojan have a nice, unexpected park that's still open year-round. The park has picnic tables and paved walking and jogging trails around a lake stocked with trout in spring. You'll find plenty of paved parking, along with covered kitchen sites with electricity and sinks.

There's no fee.

West on Highway 30

Heading west again from Rainier, one can view Longview's waterfront industrial giants from turnouts on Highway 30. The topography of Longview is obvious, too; Mount Solo is a lump on the west side of town.

White-shouldered Mount St. Helens may dominate the scene − depending on the weather − and distant Mount Rainier may shirk its cloud cover as well. The flat dike land below is dotted with livestock, and the streets and buildings of Longview and Kelso stretch out across the river − a nice view during the day, a stunning carpet of lights at night.

At the top of the grade, turn left at the first intersection and follow Larsen Road toward Rainier Junior-High School for a glimpse of a couple of charming old cemeteries.

Near the school, look for signs pointing to the Perimeter Loop and Hayfield Loop walking trails. Hudson-Parcher Park, a wooded day-use park with picnic and camping facilities, is nearby.

Back on Highway 30, head west to soak up the culture and history of the region. Take a right on Alston-Mayger Road and follow the winding road through farms, past sparse white churches and cedar groves down to docks at Mayger that were fish-buying stations 100 years ago.

From here you can go on toward Clatskanie. You'll pass Great Vow Buddhist Monastery in a converted elementary school, the largest Zen facility in the Northwest.

Clatskanie

Clatskanie was built on logging, and the heritage can be felt around town. Local restaurants have murals or photographs of the old days. The logging was entwined with the Clatskanie and Columbia rivers that served to ferry logs and provided efficient transportation.

Turn-of-the-century lumberman T.J. Flippin built his home to look like a castle. The turreted white mansion at 620 Tichenor (turn left off Highway 30 onto Tichenor) now is a senior center and a museum.

Tours of Flippin Castle, led by the senior citizens, can be arranged by calling (503) 728-3608. Cost is $3 for adults and $2 for children under age 12.

The park has a large swimming pool, a sports field, playground, horseshoe pits, picnic tables and barbecue pits, camp sites, a boat ramp into the Clatskanie River and rest-rooms with showers.

The Clatskanie River has been dredged, so visitors now can reach the park by sailboat. From the mouth of the Clatskanie River near Anderson Island in the Columbia River, head two miles south until you reach the park.

A quick drive out Beaver Falls Road offers a glimpse of the logging world that existed until the 1970s. Turn right at the light by Hump's Restaurant from Highway 30, and follow Beaver Falls Road to the left. Turn left off Beaver Falls Road onto Depot Road, cross the railroad tracks and drive about a quarter-mile.

A rust-colored wigwam burner stands at the site of the Beaver Lumber Mill. Wigwam burners once were used to burn sawmill waste.

West of town at the intersection of Highway 30 and Highway 47, the Beaver Boat Ramp offers easy Clatskanie River access. The day-use park has picnic tables, barbecue pits, and rest-rooms.

Farther west of Clatskanie, the land widens between the highway and river into tideland.

Dikes built in the early 1900s gave the area the name of "Little Holland."

Dike-top roads wind through bottomland that grew mint to flavor chewing gum for soldiers in World War II. Today, cottonwoods and blueberries are grown there.

Jones Beach is six miles west of Clatskanie on Highway 30 off Woodson Road. The broad beach and gusty afternoon winds draw windsurfers from hundreds of miles around.

The beach is used for fishing and picnicking. Overnight camping is not permitted, but Clatskanie City Park has campsites, rest-rooms and showers.

Columbia City

A couple of towns on Highway 30 east of Rainier, toward Portland, also invite exploration.

Columbia City is a pleasant little town and home of the Caples House Museum, which occupies a whole city block.

The museum centers on a two-story home built in 1870, originally the home of the first physician in Columbia County. The old carriage house has been converted into what is called a children's attic, with a display of old dolls and toys. There also is a small country store.

The museum at 1915 First St. is open 9 a.m. to 5 p.m. Wednesdays through Sundays, and holidays, March through October. Admission is $2 for adults and 50 cents for children. For information, call (503) 397-5390.

The Ruth Richardson Memorial Park across the street from the museum features paths lined with roses, azaleas and rhododendrons. Just down the street is little Pixie Park on the Columbia. Pixie was the name of long-time resident Harvey Jordan's boat.

St. Helens

You haven't seen St. Helens if you haven't turned off the strip malls of Highway 30 and driven to Olde Towne. Follow the signs to the courthouse, a basalt Georgian Revival style structure built at the turn of the century.

The Olde Towne area is among the most charming town centers in the area, with restaurants and funky little shops.

The boat dock behind the courthouse was rebuilt several years ago. View Park offers a gazebo and picnic areas.

The St. Helens Chamber of Commerce, in the newly renovated railroad station along the highway, has information about Olde Towne. It's open 10 a.m. to 4 p.m. weekdays, and the phone number is (503) 397-0685.

Across from the courthouse, Sand Island has a marine park, accessible only by boat. Created in the late 1920s from dredge spoils, it offers docks, picnic tables, nature trails and a beach for sunbathing and swimming.

Warren

With or without a boat, Scappoose Bay Marina is another pleasant stop.

Drive two miles south of St. Helens along Old Portland Road. Look for signs indicating a turnoff from Highway 30 toward the river. The marina has a two-lane boat ramp, large parking lot, boat and trailer storage for rent, a fishing dock and walking bridge, rest-rooms, large picnic areas, a small grocery store, gazebo and nature trails.

Scappoose

The rural atmosphere surrounding a small but bustling airport makes Airport Park a destination in itself. Northeast of town, the park features campsites.

Midway between Scappoose and Portland, Sauvie Island has plenty of U-pick fruit and vegetable stands along the road. A state wildlife area on the island offers waterfowl and wildlife observation and even a nude beach.

If you'd like to fish in a branch of the Nehalem River, try Scaponia Park. Located 13 miles west of Scappoose on Scappoose-Vernonia Road, the seven-acre nature park offers trails through the woods, and campsites without hookups are available for a small fee on a first-come, first-served basis.

Vernonia

Eventually, all roads lead to Vernonia − though it takes a while to get there. Located in a small valley in the southwest portion of the county, Vernonia is accessible from every other town in the county.

Vernonia Lake, once the log pond for the now-defunct Oregon American Lumber Co., is a park with restrooms and a paved pedestrian/bike path around the shore. The southern section of the path passes the crumbling hulk of the old mill.

Downtown, Anderson Park, has picnic and barbecue areas, playing fields, playground equipment, a horse arena, campsites, and a rental kitchen. The park is also the northern trailhead for the Banks-Vernonia Linear Park, a 21-mile long, 12-foot wide bike-horse-pedestrian trail following an old logging railroad right-of-way from Vernonia to Banks.

The trail's gentle grade leads through woodsy scenery and past a pair of 600-foot-long, 80-foot-high railroad trestles. The trailhead is in Vernonia, and there are other access points along Highway 47 south to Banks.

Off the beaten path, Camp Wilkerson is located on Apiary Road, 12 miles south of Rainier and 16 miles north of Vernonia. Youth organizations and other groups use the forested 280-acre primitive campground. Reservations are required. Call (503) 556-3536.

Big Eddy Park, seven miles north of Vernonia, offers grassy play areas, camping, fishing, canoeing and a boat launch in a forested day-use park.

Call (503) 429-6982 for reservations.